Arbor Day, observed nationally on the last Friday in April, is a celebration of trees and the people who plant them. Trees shade streets and homes, cool neighborhoods on hot summer days, soak up stormwater, clean the air, provide habitat for birds and insects and simply make places more beautiful. A tree planted today may still be standing for your grandchildren.
Planting a tree is not complicated, but doing it well takes some thought. A tree in the wrong spot or planted too deep may struggle for years or fail entirely. This guide walks through how to choose a tree, pick the right location, plant it correctly and help it get established.
Start With the Right Tree
The best tree for a spot depends on how much space it has, how much sun it gets and what the soil is like. Before you shop, ask:
- How big will it get? Check the mature height and spread, not the size at the nursery.
- How much sun does the spot get? Some trees need full sun; others tolerate shade.
- What is the soil like? Is it wet, dry, compacted or sandy?
- What is overhead and underground? Power lines, buildings and utilities limit what can grow.
- What do you want the tree to do? Provide shade, attract wildlife, add spring flowers or fall color?
Native trees are often a good choice, since they are adapted to the regional climate and support local wildlife. Local nurseries, extension services and city or town tree staff can recommend species suited to your site. Planting a variety of species across a neighborhood also helps protect against pests and diseases that target a single type of tree.
Pick a Safe, Smart Location
Location matters as much as the tree itself. Keep these spacing guidelines in mind:
- Plant large trees well away from the house, often at least 15 to 20 feet, so roots and branches have room.
- Choose small trees for spots under or near overhead power lines.
- Keep trees back from driveways, sidewalks and foundations to reduce future conflicts.
- Avoid blocking sight lines at corners and driveways.
- Consider where shade will fall in summer, such as on the south or west side of a house.
Street trees, those planted between the sidewalk and the street, are usually managed by the city or town. Many communities have programs where residents can request a street tree. Contact your public works department, tree warden or forestry staff rather than planting one yourself.
Call 811 Before You Dig
Underground utility lines for gas, electricity, water and communications can be just inches below the surface. Hitting one can be dangerous and costly. Before digging, call 811 or use your state’s online request system a few business days ahead of time. Utility companies will mark the location of their lines for free. Wait until the lines are marked, and dig carefully around them.
Plant at the Right Depth
One of the most common planting mistakes is putting a tree in too deep. A tree’s root flare, where the trunk widens at the base, should sit at or slightly above ground level after planting. Here is how to plant correctly:
- Find the root flare. Gently remove extra soil from the top of the root ball until you see where the trunk begins to widen.
- Dig a wide, shallow hole. Make it two to three times as wide as the root ball and only as deep as the distance from the bottom of the root ball to the root flare.
- Remove containers and wrapping. Take off plastic pots. For balled-and-burlapped trees, remove wire baskets, twine and as much burlap as possible once the tree is in the hole.
- Loosen circling roots. If roots wrap around the root ball, gently tease them outward or make a few shallow vertical cuts.
- Set the tree. Place it in the hole, make sure it is straight and check that the root flare is at or just above ground level.
- Backfill with native soil. Use the soil you dug out, breaking up clumps. Lightly firm it to remove large air pockets, but do not pack it hard.
- Water deeply. Soak the root zone slowly and thoroughly.
Mulch Like a Donut, Not a Volcano
Mulch holds moisture, moderates soil temperature and keeps mowers and trimmers away from the trunk. Spread a layer two to four inches deep in a wide circle around the tree. Keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk itself. Piling mulch against the trunk, sometimes called a “mulch volcano,” can lead to rot, pests and disease.
Staking Only When Needed
Most young trees do not need staking. Trees grow stronger trunks when they can move slightly in the wind. Stake only if the tree is in a very windy spot or cannot stand upright on its own, and remove stakes after about one growing season.
Water Through the First Few Years
A newly planted tree needs consistent water to grow new roots. In general:
- Water deeply about once a week during the growing season if it has not rained, more in hot, dry spells.
- Water slowly at the base so it soaks in rather than running off.
- Keep watering through the first two to three years, the critical period for establishment.
- Check soil moisture a few inches down; it should feel damp, not soggy.
Plant With Neighbors
Tree planting is a wonderful community activity. Consider:
- Asking your city or town about street tree requests for your block.
- Coordinating with neighbors to plant trees in several yards at once.
- Organizing a tree-watering schedule for young trees on your street.
- Involving kids in planting and caring for a tree they can watch grow.
A tree planted on Arbor Day is a gift to the future. With the right species, the right spot and good care, it can shade and shelter a neighborhood for generations.
Quick check: Where should a tree’s root flare sit after planting?
- Several inches below the soil
- At or slightly above ground level
- Covered by a tall mound of mulch
Show answer
B. Planting with the root flare at or just above ground level helps prevent rot and lets roots get the air they need.